I was seven and a half years old In 1887, after Sukkot, when I arrived in Kletsk from Stolvetz. I found all streets muddy. On Radzvilmont Street, by the pharmacy and Razivilmont Street there was a green washy swamp and most of the years pigs lay there enjoying themselves. In some places the mud reached waistline. Most inhabitants of Kletsk, including women, wore boots. Clothes were plain even though people made a living. People were accustomed to savingmoney and did not spend it easily. There was no splurging in food. Bread with cucumber and potatoes was many people’s meal.

In contrast to the miserable appearance of the shtetl, most Jews of Kletsk were Torah learners, people of action full of energy and initiative in trade and labor. They traded in grain, horses, and waste of linen. Shops were full of all the best because the city had a vast village rear. [many villages at the back of it]. On market days and fairs thousands visited them and whoever owned a shop in market place made a sure living.

The only ruler representing the authorities was the uriadnik (something like the head of regime and police in the shtetl; see here] ). [the parenthesis is the author’s) and later there was in Kletsk a pristav (clerk) of a higher rank. The only difference between them was in the amount of the “bribe”. The former was contented with a drink of brandy and the present of small money. The latter, had to have a fixed monthly salary. Anyway, the Jews feltas if they owned the city and walked like free people. I remember only once the the pristav ordered to lay branches of trees in some streets and pour sand over them so that carriages and people would not sink in the mud. It was a difficult order for the population and they tried to annul the order. .. Freedom and and feeling of ownership were evident especially in the crowd – Butchers and stout horse merchants. There was not one day in the market square without quarrels and brawls between Jews and non-Jews. The Jews always had the upper hand.

In the year of the coronation of Tzar Nikolai 2nd, there a big celebration was arranged in Kletsk as well in honor of the coronation. It was announced in the neighboring villages. On the area next to the Church in the market place, they erected a big stage, put up pillars the length of the area and stretched wire cords between them. On the cords they hung multi-colored paper-lanterns with lit candles in them. Thousands of farmers from the whole neighborhood came, the fire brigade orchestra played, prayers were held for the new Tzar. At the edge of the square they distributed food and drink gratis. People enjoyed walked in the square and its streets. Suddenly an idea occurred to several Jewish youth to drive out the non-Jews from the market. They started hitting them and shouting: “go back home”. The farmers were scared and within a short while the square was empty of the neighborhood’s non-Jews.

The Jews led their inner life according to their understanding and taste. There were several societies to aid and support the poor, bikur Kholim, Linat Tzedek, etc. When someone got sick, two people came to stay at his bed at night and help him so that the family could rest and gain strength, and they would take turns. The sick poor had doctors and medications for free.

Love of Torah was the lot of the whole city. In all the Batei Midrash and kloyzes the tables and the standers were occupied by leaning people and scholars. They studied Gemarah, Mishnayot, Ein-Yaakov etc. The Jews of Kletsk tended to marry off their daughters to students of Yeshiva and Torah people. A big part of their day they spent in the Beit Midrash and the Kloyz. Those who came in the morning said some forewords before the prayer???, after the prayer they recited chapters of Psalms and studied a chapter of Mishnayot. They used to come earlier in the evening as well, in the meantime conversing about matters of the world. Between Minkha and Ma’ariv, all tables were occupied and at the head of each – a rabbi teaching his listeners. After Ma’ariv prayer, the prayer house did not stay empty. Many studies until very late at night.

On Sabbath and Holidays, the Jews were joyful. Peace and pleasantness everywhere. All prayer houses were full of praying people. After Sabbath meal they had a short while of sleep and they would come again to the Beit-Midrash and Kloyz to study. Happy was he who had the honor to pass before the taiva [a box where the Torah scroll is held and when they read the scroll is on the box ] to read from the scroll and lead the prayer.

There were many people who knew how to play a musical instrument and how to lead a prayer.

First and most, Moshe Hirshke had a held-right lead the prayer in the Great Synagogue on Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur. A choir of 5-6 singers led by Moshe Khayim, the grave-maker helped him. My father used to express his admiration of Moshe’s prayer: beautiful and nice.

The second to him was Bendz’ik with a powerful and pleasant voice. However, he was not very acceptable because he did not understand grammar and the meaning of words. He used to lead the prayer alternately in the Great Synagogue and in the Beit Midrash.

Rabbi Shalom Dov had a held-right in the Beit Midrash for leading the prayer of Kol Nidrey and Ne’ila. Hirshke Dlugach and Nakhke Moshe Asher’s stood by his side and helped him. There were other good leaders of prayers.

Hirshke Dlugach led the prayer on sukkot in theBeit HaMidrashI. A long line of worshippers with lulavsI in their hands, used to surround the Bimah . Hishke would lead the line, singing, and stop after each step to shake the Lulav and cite Hoshana… and his face was radiant.

The rabbi used to say about Moshe Hishke’s that he could be joining every Minyan [ten people for prayer] If there are 9 good people – Moshe is the 10th in his goodness. If there are 9 gentle people – Moshe is 10th in his gentleness. The same goes for learners, unique and charitable. He had many good qualities.

Mota Boyaner, Gemara teacher, and Yoel the Melamed, my stepfather, were like twins. They were both scholars who taught many pupils for scores of years, lovingly and with dedication. The former taught Gemarah and the latter taught Bible, Hebrew and grammar.

Other characters: Meir Fish spending most of his day in praying and studying, Leibe Yenkl Yo’el’s – poor good-hearted his voice ringing in prayer Kadosh, Kadosh… Berl from Tzepra Street, a grain merchant, every day comes to the kheder at entrance of the synagogue and teaches khumash, Mishnayot and right conduct to artisans and workers.

The pride of the Jews of Kletsk was Rabbi Shalom Dov author of Heikhaley HaShen, tall, sturdy, loves people and hospitable.

One room in his house was always open to whoever wishes to sit and study or converse with friends. On Sabbath he had many guests who ate at his table. The custom of Oneg Shabbat [eating the best of foods and singing in honor of Sabbath] was still held in his house as well as the joy of the third meal. [the Jewish Halakha: there should be 3 meals for Sabbath. One Friday evening and two others during the Sabbath. The third meal is to be eaten before the evening when Sabbath is over.]

Moshe Asher’s and Yenkel the gabbai excelled in their singing, until the Rabbi signed to say the blessing over the food. After Ma’ariv prayer he makes the Havdala over the glass of wine and Hirshke Dlugach used to hold the special interlaced candle. After the Havdala the Rabbi hands out cigarettes to all those who smoke, the people stay some more and then start to leave. Only the very close people stay for tea and spend time together.

Sukkot is almost here. The joy is great. Many people are busy building the Sukkah where the Rabbi also sleeps. If there was no rain during the 2 first days of the Holiday, the Jews of Kletsk celebrated undisturbed. The rest of the days the used to deal in the evenings with Simkhat Beig HaShoeva.

I remember Hirshke Kapuker, the brother of the author Mendele Mokher Sfarim who was among the visitors in the Rabbi’s house. He used to masquerade and act before the public presenting various types:. Once he acted the part of a hunchback dancing with a stick… the Rabbi also let himself be loose and acted like a Hassidic Rabbi, and handed out \??? He turned to us, children, with endearing words to approach him and handed out sweets.

Eve of Hoshana Raba. The Jews are coming to the prayer houses to recite psalms in public all night. In almost all prayer houses they use to hand out apples to all Psalm reciters. In the Minyan of the Rabbi the apples were high quality and everyone ate as many as he wished. They also entertained themselves with Shir Hama’alot each reciting one verse.

On the morning of Hoshana Rabah, all prayer houses were full with happy and joyful people. The expressed it in blessings over a glass of wine and various sweets. In the backyard of the synagogue there are counters where people sell honey cakes and other sweets. People coming out of the prayer houses, used to buy them – a mark for a sweet year, and they bring some for their family.

In the Rabbi’s house there is wine and refreshments that were prepared by Yenkel the gabbai, and the people enjoy that very much.

On the eve of Simkhat Torah joy bursts forth intensely. It was customary for the people to go over to the Rabbi’s house and take him with them to Beit HaMidras – he in the middle and they around him singing. When he arrives, all pray Ma’ariv. The cantor allows himself to deviate from the regular version and mixes various melodies to the enjoyment of the congregation. Then the hakafot start and in between each hakafai – singing and dancing with and without the Torah books. Among the singers and dancers Leibe Yenkel Yoel is extreme to the point of exhaustion. Then they lead the Rabbi to his house. Now the crowd is even bigger because from all other prayer housed the congregations join singing and dancing to honor the Rabbi .

The next day – Simkhat Torah and joyfully people drink wine in the middle of praying, go in groups for refreshments from one house to another…

Among the Holidays second-in-importance such as Khanukah, Purim, Lag Ba’omer, we children counted also Tisha Be’av.

After the morning lamentations, the Rabbi walks with his shamash to the cemetery, about 2 km away from the city. We liked this walk. The Rabbi did not enter the cemetery. He sat with those who accompanied him nearby under one of the trees and conversed with them. We went to look for nuts, since many nut trees were growing there.